Best Counterweight Set for DJI RS 3 Mini
Balancing a chunky lens like the Sony 24-70mm GM II on the compact DJI RS 3 Mini can be a frustrating exercise in physics. You often run out of room on the tilt axis, leaving your motors struggling and your footage jittery. I’ve found that a well-placed counterweight is the only way to unlock the gimbal’s full potential for pro-level setups. The SmallRig 4197 is our top choice for its seamless integration, but several excellent alternatives exist to save your shoot.
Our Top Picks at a Glance
Best Counterweight Set for DJI RS 3 Mini: Detailed Reviews
SmallRig Counterweight Mounting Plate 4197 View on Amazon View on B&H
If you are serious about using the RS 3 Mini with a full-frame camera and a fast zoom lens, the SmallRig 4197 is non-negotiable. Unlike generic weights that you struggle to clip on, this replaces the original DJI quick-release plate. It features multiple 1/4″-20 threaded holes at the back, allowing you to screw in weights to offset the “nose-heavy” nature of long lenses. In my testing, this plate provided the necessary clearance to balance a Sony A7IV with a 16-35mm f/2.8 without the camera hitting the gimbal arm. The build quality is typical SmallRig—rugged aluminum with clear scale markings for repeatable setups. The only minor drawback is that you’ll need to purchase the individual screw-in weights separately if you don’t already own them, but for the precision it offers, it is well worth the investment.
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Neewer 2-Piece Counterweight Set View on Amazon View on B&H
The Neewer 2-Piece Counterweight Set is the workhorse of the gimbal world. This kit includes one 100g and one 200g weight, both featuring standard 1/4″-20 screws on the top and threads on the bottom. This stackable design is incredibly useful; I often find that 100g is just a bit too light, but stacking them gives me that “Goldilocks” balance. If your RS 3 Mini is already equipped with a SmallRig cage or an aftermarket plate with rear threads, these weights are the most cost-effective way to achieve stability. They are made of stainless steel, meaning they won’t rust if you’re shooting in humid environments. While they lack the refined finish of more expensive brands, their utility is undeniable. Just ensure your current plate has the necessary mounting holes, as these are “dumb” weights without a mounting clamp of their own.
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NICEYRIG 1/4 Thread Counterweight View on Amazon View on B&H
When you only need a tiny bit of help to get your tilt axis balanced, the NICEYRIG 100g weight is the perfect low-profile solution. It is remarkably straightforward—a single 100g puck with a 1/4″ screw. I often keep a few of these in my bag because they are so unobtrusive. If you’re using a camera like the Fujifilm X-T5 with a slightly larger prime lens, you might find you’re only a few grams away from a perfect balance. The NICEYRIG is the cheapest way to bridge that gap. The limitation, of course, is that 100g isn’t much. If you’re trying to balance a heavy cinema lens or a large zoom, you’ll need to buy several of these and stack them, which can eventually become quite long and potentially snag on the gimbal’s arms. For small adjustments, however, it’s an unbeatable value.
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SmallRig Extended Vertical Mount for RS 3 Mini View on Amazon View on B&H
For creators who primarily shoot vertical content for social media, the SmallRig Extended Vertical Mount is a premium necessity. While not a “weight set” in the traditional sense, it provides the physical framework that makes counterweights effective. It extends the vertical arm of the RS 3 Mini, giving you more room to slide the camera down and adding more points to screw in weights. When I transitioned to shooting high-end commercial Reels, this mount allowed me to use a full camera cage and a matte box, which would be impossible on the stock DJI mount. It’s built like a tank and ensures that your counterweights don’t hit the gimbal base during complex movements. It is a more expensive route, but for a professional workflow where you can’t afford to have your gimbal lock up mid-shot, it’s the gold standard.
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UURig R064 Counterweight Clamp View on Amazon View on B&H
The UURig R064 is a unique beast because it doesn’t require a specific plate to work. It features a universal clamp that can attach to the side arm of the gimbal itself. I’ve found this incredibly useful when using side-heavy accessories like an external monitor or a wireless follow-focus motor. If your camera is perfectly balanced front-to-back but leans to one side, this clamp lets you add weight exactly where you need it. It’s compatible with most DJI and Zhiyun gimbals, making it a versatile tool if you own multiple stabilization systems. The rubber padding inside the clamp prevents it from scratching the gimbal’s finish, which I really appreciate. The only downside is that it adds bulk to the arm, which can sometimes limit the gimbal’s range of motion in “underslung” mode.
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Buying Guide: How to Choose Counterweights for the RS 3 Mini
Comparison Table
| Product | Best For | Rating | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| SmallRig 4197 | Heavy Zoom Lenses | ★★★★★ | Check |
| Neewer 2-Piece | Value/Stacking | ★★★★☆ | Check |
| NICEYRIG 100g | Small Primes | ★★★★☆ | Check |
| SmallRig Extended | Vertical Content | ★★★★★ | Check |
| UURig R064 | Side Balancing | ★★★★☆ | Check |
Frequently Asked Questions
Will counterweights damage my DJI RS 3 Mini motors?
Quite the opposite! Counterweights are designed to reduce the strain on your motors. When a gimbal is perfectly balanced, the motors barely have to work to keep the camera steady. If you try to force an unbalanced setup, the motors will vibrate, overheat, and eventually wear out. Using counterweights ensures the center of gravity is correct, which actually extends the lifespan of your gimbal’s internal components and improves battery life.
How do I know how much weight I need?
It’s usually a process of trial and error. Start with 100g. If you still can’t balance the tilt axis even with the plate slid all the way back, add another 100g. For a standard full-frame mirrorless camera with a 24-70mm lens, 200g to 300g is typically the “sweet spot.” You’ll know you’ve got it right when the camera stays in place at any angle when the motors are turned off.
Can I use counterweights for vertical shooting?
Yes, and they are often even more necessary for vertical shooting! When you flip the RS 3 Mini into vertical mode, the clearance between the camera and the gimbal arm changes significantly. You often need to add weight to the bottom of the camera cage or the back of the mounting plate to prevent the top of the camera from being too heavy and causing a “top-heavy” flop.
Do I need a special plate to use these weights?
The weights themselves usually have a standard 1/4″-20 screw. However, the stock RS 3 Mini plate doesn’t have many places to screw them in. That is why I highly recommend a dedicated mounting plate like the SmallRig 4197. Without a plate that has rear-facing threads, you’ll have nowhere to attach the weights unless you are using a full camera cage with extra mounting points.
Are there any DIY alternatives to buying weights?
In a pinch, I’ve seen people tape coins or batteries to their gimbal, but I wouldn’t recommend it for professional work. DIY solutions are prone to falling off mid-shot, and they don’t allow for the precise, repeatable balancing that a threaded weight set provides. For the sake of $20, it’s much better to buy a proper set that won’t fail you during a critical shoot.
Final Verdict
If you’re pushing the limits of your RS 3 Mini with professional glass, the SmallRig 4197 mounting plate is the smartest investment you can make—it solves the clearance problem that individual weights alone cannot fix. For those on a budget or using smaller lenses, the Neewer 2-piece set offers fantastic versatility. Whatever you choose, remember that a balanced gimbal is a happy gimbal, leading to smoother shots and a much longer motor lifespan.